What Is Chikankari?
Chikankari is a traditional hand-embroidery craft associated with Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh.
The word is often associated with delicate embroidery created using thread on fabric. Traditionally, white thread on light-coloured fabric was especially popular, but modern Chikankari is now available in many colours and fabrics.
From delicate flowers to intricate openwork, every design is created by carefully placing stitches to form a beautiful pattern.
It is the combination of these stitches that gives Chikankari its distinctive beauty.
Types of Stitches in Lucknowi Chikankari.
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Bakhiya
Bakhiya is one of the most recognisable techniques in Chikankari and is popularly known as shadow work.
The embroidery creates a soft, delicate effect on the front of the fabric, while much of the detailed work is done from the reverse side.
This gives the design a subtle depth and an elegant shadow-like appearance.
Bakhiya looks particularly beautiful on lightweight and slightly sheer fabrics.
Look for: Soft floral shapes and delicate shadow-like embroidery.
2. Tepchi
Tepchi is one of the fundamental stitches used in Chikankari embroidery.
It is a simple running stitch that can be used to create outlines, stems, leaves and other parts of a design.
Despite its simplicity, Tepchi plays an important role in building the overall pattern.
Look for: Fine, clean lines forming the basic structure of floral and decorative motifs.
3.Ghaspatti
Ghaspatti is a beautiful Chikankari technique used to create delicate leaf-like and petal-shaped motifs. The name comes from ghas, meaning grass, reflecting the slender, flowing appearance of the design.
It is often used to create leaves, vines and floral elements, adding a graceful and natural look to Chikankari embroidery.
Look for: Fine, elongated leaf and petal shapes arranged in floral or vine-like pattern
3. Murri
Murri is a tiny raised stitch that resembles a small grain of rice.
It is mainly used to add texture and dimension to floral motifs. Because of its tiny size, creating neat Murri requires considerable skill and patience.
The small raised details can make flowers and other motifs appear more three-dimensional.
Look for: Tiny raised dots or grain-like details within floral designs.
4.Phanda
Phanda is another small raised stitch used to add fine detail to Chikankari designs.
It is often used in floral motifs, buds and small decorative elements.
When combined with stitches such as Murri, Phanda can give a design a beautiful textured appearance.
Look for: Small knot-like raised details within flowers and motifs.
5. Jaali
Jaali is one of the most intricate and admired techniques in Chikankari.
Unlike ordinary embroidery, Jaali creates a delicate net-like openwork effect while maintaining the structure of the fabric.
It requires precision and patience, making it one of the techniques that can add exceptional delicacy to a Chikankari garment.
Look for: Fine, open patterns that resemble a delicate net.
6. Bedi Patti
Bedi Patti is a decorative Chikankari technique commonly used to create fine, patterned strips and borders within a design.
It can be used around floral motifs, along borders or as a decorative element to give the embroidery more definition and detail.
Look for: Delicate patterned lines or strips that add structure and decoration to the embroidery.
Why Does Chikankari Have So Many stitches?
One of the fascinating things about Chikankari is that different stitches serve different purposes.
One stitch may create an outline, another may add texture, while another creates an openwork effect.
Artisans combine these techniques to create:
Floral motifs
Leaves and stems
Borders
Raised textures
Shadow effects
Fine decorative details
Intricate openwork
This combination allows artisans to create designs that can look delicate from a distance and incredibly detailed up close.
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